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KATIE FROM
SCRATCH
PART 2
Corrections to Part 1
1.
I’ve had to
content myself with Doncaster green – Darlington green in gloss
no longer being available (chiz).
2.
I’ve spent
another £50 on materials and tools – solder, Baker’s No 3 Fluid
(flux), 2 modeller’s G-gramps, a set of needle files, 2 small
paint brushes, heatproof paint (black, for boiler and smokebox),
wet and dry emery paper and a butane/propane blowtorch. I am
minded to get a Dremel drill and a drill stand. In financial
terms, therefore, you save very little in buying a kit if you
have to add to your tool collection for the one job, but you do
get to understand live steam!
The Kits
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The kits
arrived on Tuesday 14 March. It seemed that there were only 3,
but they’d tucked the Radio Control kits into one of the other
boxes. I’ve got insulated wheels for £10 extra – it will do no
harm and will allow me to use the track to distribute
lighting/power to coaches, points and signals.
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Everything
except the major body and boiler parts arrives in compartmented
strips of polythene, so you won’t lose any bits if you just open
up what you need as you go along.
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These
pictures show just what you get and how it comes.
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The
Manuals
As at 21
March, I am still waiting for the consignment of primers and
paints to turn up. So what to do? Answer: RTFM – read the 4
manuals – one for each kit!
When I
ordered the kits, the nice lady said to me “Phone us up if you
get into difficulty – preferably before! We are very good at
solving kit-builders’ problems.” I believe them.
Having
read the manuals I realised that each is tailored to completing
the kit with which it comes, and doesn’t assume you are
necessarily going to build a set. This affects how parts have
been distributed between the kits, and it becomes obvious that
there is a degree of interlocking necessary if everything is to
fit together smoothly.
So I’ve
put together a spreadsheet that shows the order in which I think
parts should be assembled. It is not a substitute for the
instructions, but if you print out the pages and hold them at
arms length you will quickly see that you have to start work on
the boiler kit before you’ve finished the chassis – and so on.
For example, you need to put the saddle tank mount/boiler band
on the boiler before the boiler is fitted to the chassis,
whereas the instructions, if followed to the letter, make you
put the boiler in place, then remove it again to fit the body.
It’s
essential to read what is in the manuals, and not to do too
much. For example, when doing some metal-folding I folded the
bottoms of the cab sides through 90 deg, then realised from
checking a picture of a complete loco that I shouldn’t have done
this. Fortunately I was able to flatten them out again without
difficulty. I will come back to this in the next instalment.
Remember to
check out the New section on the G Scale Mad forum that will run
along side these articles.
CLICK HERE
to visit it now.
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