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Regner “Willi” review.

O.K.
so the name of this loco could be seen by many as a bit of a
joke, and a rather coarse one at that, but the loco itself is
far from coarse or a joke. Unfortunately the questionable
humour continues if you attempt to fit the very strongly
recommended optional water filler valve. The instructions for
this are in German and Regner produce two versions, one with and
one without a winkel (German for bracket). Willi needs the one
without the winkel!
Right,
that’s got that over and done with, down to more serious
matters.
The
appearance of the loco has a certain charm, personally I
favoured the vertical boiler “Willi” over the conventional loco
boilered “Konrad” which shares the same chassis and drive
arrangement. Single cylinder locos are very unconventional and
almost non-existent in the prototype. However, despite their
unusual appearance, a fair few vertical boilered vertical
cylinder locos were built by, amongst others, deWinton of
Caernarfon, so I argued that if you’re going to be
unconventional go the whole hog. The loco certainly looked the
part when visiting the public layout at Rothley Station; the
issue of scale didn’t seem to matter. Judging by the size of the
driver, compared with the 1:24 figure also shown in the above
photo, it would also look at home on a 7/8 “ to the foot scale
layout.
My
first impression was of a very solidly built, heavy and well
engineered loco. Everything is bolted together, no pop rivets or
self-tapping screws on this machine. Even the nameplates are
(were) held on by tiny threaded machine screws.
Closer
inspection confirmed my favourable first impression; I suspect
the manufacturer has a fair bit of experience with model boat
power units and that much of this loco is based on a marine
unit. Many of the features that are standard on this machine are
extra or unavailable on alternative budget locos. These include
insulated wheels (adjustable for gauge), water gauge glass,
displacement lubricator with oil feed rate adjustment, fine
control regulator with separate reversing valve, pressure gauge,
fairly high pressure boiler (3 Bar) and gas firing system. The
only optional item of which I’m aware is a water fill valve. I
can’t overstress the advisability of fitting one of these as,
unlike other live steamers with which I’m familiar, the fuel
tank is large enough to boil dry a full boiler and still have
some fuel in reserve. Should you be unlucky or careless enough
to let the water level fall enough to risk damage to the boiler
you need a means of injecting water quickly without waiting for
the pressure to drop before unscrewing the rather hot filler
plug, and possibly dropping it in your panic!

The loco in steam, note the exhaust issuing from the tall pipe
on the right.
In
addition to the arguably oversized gas tank the other unusual
features are the pressure gauge and steam exhaust. The pressure
gauge, in addition to being calibrated in bar rather than P.S.I.,
is divided into two coloured sections, red and green. The odd,
to my eyes, thing about this is that the needle starts in the
red and moves into the green as working pressure is reached.
There is still over half of the green sector to go when the
safety valve lifts fully at the maximum pressure of 3 Bar (about
44 P.S.I.). The steam exhaust isn’t directed up the funnel but
into a condensing tank with a separate exhaust pipe. Personally
I find this preferable to condensate and steam oil spurting out
of the chimney, especially when the loco is relatively cold.
This facility permits checking that the steam oil is reaching
the cylinder by judging the quantity of oil in the condensate.
Also discharging the steam oil into the chimney of a vertical
boiled machine may cause erratic operation of the burner due to
drops of oil falling into the flame.
What’s
in the box?
In
addition to the loco itself you get a substantial back-to-back
wheel gauge to suit 30,32 and 45mm track together with the
appropriate Allen key, a bottle of steam oil, a gas filler
nozzle with adaptor and spare tips, a water fill bottle and a
packet of spare washers and O-rings. Of course there is also a
set of well illustrated instructions, mine were in German, but I
believe that the British supplier of Regner’s products, Martin’s
Models
(
http://www.gardenrailways.co.uk
) has translated them for the benefit of his customers. In
addition there is also a heavy driver figure and a bottle of
touch up paint complete with an integral paintbrush in the cap.
The only extra you may feel the need to obtain (other than the
water fill system already mentioned) is a set of spanners.
Whilst the fastenings are, presumably, metric sizes, my trusty
old B.A. spanners fit well enough. The drain plugs for the
condensate tank and displacement lubricator have knurled heads,
and therefore don’t need a spanner but the water filling
facility on the boiler has a hexagon head plug, and may need a
spanner to loosen. It shouldn’t be over tightened as it is
sealed with an O-ring but a spanner lessens the risk of burned
fingers on one of the hottest parts of the loco. Of course if
you fit he water fill system you won’t need to touch this plug,
but you will need the slightly smaller size of spanner to fit
the water fill valve!
How
does it perform?
In
short, faultlessly from the word go!
The
gearing and fine control regulator mean that there is little
noticeable speed difference on gradients and definitely no
tendency to run away downhill. The official published weight of
2.28 Kg. gives the loco a fair bit of traction and it has more
than enough power as it will slip rather than stall if the load
is excessive. The prototypes were never used for heavy work and
this loco can certainly manage sensible length trains.
Preparation is very straightforward. It’s better to oil round
whilst the engine is cold as a drop of oil is required on the
gears under the footplate, it’s also easy to oil the axle
bearings and connecting rods with the loco upside down. I also
like to ease the cylinder from the valve face and put a drop of
oil down the resulting gap as well as a drop on the piston rod
before turning the loco right way up. The other gears, flywheel
shaft bearings and big end can be oiled when the loco is the
right way up. The displacement lubricator is filled from the top
with the steam oil provided, it is best to do this with the
lubricator drain plug removed and replace the top before
replacing the drain plug. The lubricator needle valve needs to
be opened between one half and two turns, experience will help
decide the optimum setting. Filling the gas tank seems a little
strange at first as, with my example at least, it is almost
silent and there is no spillage of liquid and gas when the tank
is full. I tend to give it about 20 seconds to fill but I
suspect it is full before this and the time will depend of the
pressure remaining in the can which will vary with amount used
and temperature. All that remains to do is fill the boiler, I
like to start with about three quarters of a glass and then top
up to a full boiler when working pressure is reached. Open the
regulator, set the reversing valve, spin the flywheel a few revs
and away she goes!
Modifications.

Top view showing the water fill
valve half way between the gas valve and regulator.
As
this loco is a very well equipped model of a simple style of
prototype there is very little room for improvement. The
optional water fill valve is highly recommended for the reasoned
mentioned earlier. I chose to fit mine close to the steam and
gas regulators as shown in the photo above, but it could be
fitted almost anywhere on the footplate. The boiler connection
is more clearly seen in the first photograph on this review. It
fits onto the boss provided near the base of the boiler well
below the pressure gauge connection.
A
friend drilled out the plastic tips supplied for the gas filler
in order to make them a push fit onto the existing nozzle for my
other gas fired live steamer. This allows me to use the same
type of gas canister for both locos by merely fitting or
removing the Regner tip.
The
photographs in the instructions, on Regner’s website
(
http://www.regner-dampftechnik.de
) and on the box all show the loco fitted with LGB loop
couplings with the mounting shank modified to suit. The loco is
actually supplied with large metal centre buffers suitable for
link and pin coupling. I decided to fit LGB loops, a simple job
made easier by the fact that I already had a 3mm nut spinner
with which to remove and replace the buffer beams complete with
the relevant attached parts of the bodywork. Due to a small
miscalculation I fitted them 2mm lower than standard, a happy
accident which helps minimise unintentional uncoupling.
The
nameplates provided aren’t really suitable for anyone with an
understanding of English slang, but they easily unbolt to permit
replacement.
I may
also take Tag Gorton’s advice in his review published in Garden
Rail magazine and apply heat shrink tubing to the regulator and
reversing valve handles.

Hauling a mixed rake of six empty LGB feldbahn wagons.

And a dozen loaded Aristo shorty gondolas
(Photo Trevor Goodman)
Conclusion
In
conclusion if you’re considering a live steamer and would like
good build quality, reasonable power, reliable working and
controllable performance at a budget price this machine should
be on your short list. If you fancy something rather unusual it
should be at the top of your list.
Neil
Robinson 2006.
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