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On this page you find all those little hints and tips that will help when it comes to building and running your garden railway. Please feel free to send any tips or hints that you have to jason@gscalemad.co.uk so that it can be added to the website. |
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Traction tires do not last very long on garden railways and ones for USA Trains are sometimes hard to come by. An alternative is to use the security seal on 2 litre or 330ml bottles of soft drinks (coke/Pepsi). Carefully remove the seal from the bottle and you will find that the inner part of the seal will clip nicely into the wheel groove. The outer part of the seal can then be trimmed with a craft knife to fit. Sounds a bit Heath Robinson but it works. My GP30 & GP38 have run all summer with their 'new' plastic tires with no problems at all. Malcolm. |
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Hi All, Neil Robinson. |
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Don't forget
that with track power, keeping your track clean is only half |
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How do you fancy some cheap smoke oil ? At the moment Asda, Morrisions, Sainsburys, etc are all selling garden lamp oil for about £1.00 a litre and they are also selling barbeque lighter fluid for about the same price. Get one of each and then mix them 50% - 50% then you end up with 2 litres of smoke oil for about £2.00 which is quite a bit cheaper than the oil LGB sells for smoke units. Mike. |
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When pruning conifers if you save some of the clippings from the tips of the conifers and trim the ends with a sharp knife, then dip the end in some hormone rooting compound and pot them up into moist compost. They will root very easily and you will have a fresh, free supply of miniature trees to replace any that outgrow their space. If this sounds like too much trouble perhaps you could enlist the support of your head gardener, thus fostering a "growing interest" in your railway. The Gnome. |
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Having
trouble find Pola cement for your outdoor model buildings,
then try " Flopast" from ScewFix Direct at
www.screwfix.co.uk
This works well and is easy to find and order.
Charles
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I read
the article on coach lighting on the
ARTICLES AND REPORTS PAGE
by Matt Gadfield and it mentions routing the wires to make
them less visible. I often use adhesive backed copper strip
for this purpose. It is available in some hobby/craft shops
as it is often used for dolls house lighting (and
wallpapered over). Rapid Electronics
Also sell it, often to schools to make up simple electrical circuits in technology lessons.
I like
to run two strips along the floor and solder short wires
from these to the pickups. Two strips go up one end only of
the coach, the top end is soldered to short wiring with a
connector and a matching connector for the roof wiring
and/or copper strips. This option allows the roof to be
completely removed. Where two or more strips need to be
connected together they are just placed on top of each other
and then soldered.
Neil
Robinson
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Here's a top tip about track laying that i thought i would share with you all. It's how i laid the track on my railway the S&H. I lay the track into horticultural grit, so in effect it floats in the ballast, but to avoid any movement I simply insert a tent peg over a sleeper and hammer it into the soil below the ballast, this stops it from rising and drifting. Paul & Duncan. |
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Getting moss to grow on your new viaduct or bridge can be helped by painting it with plain yoghurt, then just sit back and wait and this will help the growth of moss to help add to the realism of you railway. G Brandjes. |
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This
will only take you a couple of minutes to do.
The
picture shows some small windows which are made by lego.
These
windows can be cut in half to make tail lamps for your
trains.
A
paper clip is cut to size to make the handle, a small piece
of plastic card
Is
put on the cut side to neaten the edges. The lamp is then
painted white, the glazed part can be painted red, for the
clever ones amongst us a red l.e.d. Can be inserted into
the lamp to make it a working model.
Brenda 2007. |
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Want
to bend or shape wood then why not try using some pvc piping
and making a simple steamer.
Method
as follows.
A
small gas burner with kettle on top, spout of kettle inside
one end of pvc pipe (pipe supported higher at non kettle
end) timber tied to a piece of string and lowered into pipe,
boil kettle and after about 10-15 minutes (sometime longer
dependant on soft or hard wood) the timber can be bent
almost like plastercine. To form curves simply drive nails
into a piece of scrap board the same as if forming boards
for concrete and bend hot timber and hold in place with
nails to the shape/curve you want. Being hot the moisture
will evaporate more quickly hence drying quicker and 99% of
the time will not crack or try to straighten out. Very
simple very effective.
Roger Browne.
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